Nissan Micra running problems (air flow meter)

[cliff100]

Hi Everyone I hope someone can give me some advice,
I have a Micra Auto 1000 (Jap import) K11 model and it's running rough
I have just had it serviced and the following was done :
normal service (apart from the brakes as mechanic said he had neve
done brakes on an import before so would not want to do them).
and the Timing
and it was still running rough, the mechanic told me it could be th
exhaust sensor or the air flow meter. as one was about £100 and th
other £900 we should start with the £100 part.
I didnt want to scrap the car if it was only to turn out to be the £10
part (sensor).
This was replaced and the car is still rough. I was not happy with th
mechanic so would like a second oponion. It runs ok for a few min
until warm and then can do some or all of these :
stall , no power and only way to get it back is pump the accelaterato
like crazy, engine revs
go up and down if stopped at lights etc. Using too much fuel,
The mechanic said it could be the air flow meter but I should get th
complete throttle body assembly. What I would like to know could it b
anything else or am I safe in just getting the throttle body assembly.
I could take it to another garage but I will then have to pay out
to get it checked over. I have found a man on Ebay who sells reco
bits and has the throttle body for £95 +p&p.
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help an
advice would be appreciated.

Cliff


Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or jus
changed for new or recon


--
cliff100

[MrCheerful]

Post by cliff100
Hi Everyone I hope someone can give me some advice,
I have a Micra Auto 1000 (Jap import) K11 model and it's running rough.
normal service (apart from the brakes as mechanic said he had never
done brakes on an import before so would not want to do them).
and the Timing
and it was still running rough, the mechanic told me it could be the
exhaust sensor or the air flow meter. as one was about £100 and the
other £900 we should start with the £100 part.
I didnt want to scrap the car if it was only to turn out to be the £100
part (sensor).
This was replaced and the car is still rough. I was not happy with the
mechanic so would like a second oponion. It runs ok for a few mins
stall , no power and only way to get it back is pump the accelaterator
like crazy, engine revs
go up and down if stopped at lights etc. Using too much fuel,
The mechanic said it could be the air flow meter but I should get the
complete throttle body assembly. What I would like to know could it be
anything else or am I safe in just getting the throttle body assembly.
I could take it to another garage but I will then have to pay out
to get it checked over. I have found a man on Ebay who sells recon
bits and has the throttle body for £95 +p&p.
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help and
advice would be appreciated.
Cliff
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100

the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the connector
to it!!

With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any variation is
suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a position where it all
works OK, this will last for years, believe me, I have done several !!

[PC Paul]

Post by MrCheerful

Post by cliff100
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
and advice would be appreciated.
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100

the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
connector to it!!
With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe me,
I have done several !!

Can you use a soldering iron?

http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php

It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon
sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...

[MrCheerful]

Post by PC Paul

Post by MrCheerful

Post by cliff100
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
and advice would be appreciated.
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100

the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
connector to it!!
With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe me,
I have done several !!

Can you use a soldering iron?
http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php
It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon
sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...

Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.

Mrcheerful

[John Weale]

Post by MrCheerful

Post by PC Paul

Post by MrCheerful

Post by cliff100
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
and advice would be appreciated.
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100

the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
connector to it!!
With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe me,
I have done several !!

Can you use a soldering iron?
http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php
It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon
sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...

Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.
Mrcheerful

I just did one. Just make sure you use 60/40 tin/lead solder and not the
lead-free stuff or you will be back with the dry joints that originally
caused the problem.
John Weale

[cliff100]

Post by MrCheerful
Mrcheerful
-
I just did one. Just make sure you use 60/40 tin/lead solder and no
the
lead-free stuff or you will be back with the dry joints that originall
caused the problem.-
-
John Weale-
-

Thanks for that as I would not have realise


--
cliff100

[cliff100]

MrCheerful wrote:-
--
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
and advice would be appreciated.
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100-
the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
connector to it!!
With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe me,
I have done several !!-
Can you use a soldering iron?
'Nissan micra throttle body re-soldering guide - Cisco's Micra Files
(http://tinyurl.com/2cs8rv)
It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silico
sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...
-
Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.
Mrcheerful

Thanks everyone,
I will have to wait for the weekend and have a go at the repair
suggested.
I like the instructions get hold of the cold end of the soldering iro
(LOL)
I will let you all know how my repairs have gone.

Clif


--
cliff100

[PC Paul]

Post by MrCheerful

Post by PC Paul

Post by MrCheerful

Post by cliff100
I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
and advice would be appreciated.
Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
changed for new or recon ?
--
cliff100

the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
connector to it!!
With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe
me, I have done several !!

Can you use a soldering iron?
http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php
It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon
sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...

Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.

Don't forget to send me my cut of the 'reconditioned throttle body' cost
that you put on the invoice ;-)

Soldering tip: dry joints will usually be a matt grey colour. Good joints
are shiny silver, even after a long time has passed. But you can't trust the
buggers, you can still have a shiny joint that isn't making good contact.

[cliff100]

I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get bac
with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is dryed e.
silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to run a while.
hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything again and re solde
if I had to wait for the car to run in or whatever.

Thanks
Clif


--
cliff100

[John Weale]

I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get back
with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is dryed e.g
silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to run a while. I
hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything again and re solder
if I had to wait for the car to run in or whatever.
Thanks
Cliff
--
cliff100

The silicone is used to provide a watertight seal to the cover plate. Allow
a short while for the silicone to cure before running - then that's it..
The article recommends Silastic but any high temperature silicone should
do - I used Tetrasyl form the local Autofactors rated up to 250 deg C.

John Weale

[PC Paul]

Post by John Weale

Post by cliff100
I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get
back with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is
dryed e.g silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to
run a while. I hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything
again and re solder if I had to wait for the car to run in or
whatever.
Thanks
Cliff
--
cliff100

The silicone is used to provide a watertight seal to the cover plate.
Allow a short while for the silicone to cure before running - then
that's it.. The article recommends Silastic but any high temperature
silicone should do - I used Tetrasyl form the local Autofactors rated up
to 250 deg C.

The electrical side of the repair is instant. You could even run it before
you seal it to check, if you wanted to.

[cliff100]

I have now tried the car and although it has improved, it's stil
cutting out. I have since cleaned the plugs again and they show it wa
running rich. I am off to buy a better soldering iron as the one use
didnt seem to get the metal hot enough (free off a robot magaine my so
had) I could not suck all the solder off and start from fresh. It woul
only let me heat it enough to add some more solder. Having neve
soldered before I will take everything apart again and try thi
afternoon. What I did notice after the first repair was the car seeme
to be running at a very slow idle speed. Can someone tell me is thi
something that needs sorting after the repair, e.g gettng the ca
tuned. I do not want to get it tuned if the repair has not worked an
I end up buying a replacement Throttle body ?

Thanks for all the advice
Clif


--
cliff100

[cliff100]

Sorry Chaps me again,
I have had another thought and not taken the car apart again. I hav
now found out the chap who first serviced it changed the mixture.
have now had this sorted and the car is running fine. I have jus
taken it for a run down the A2 approx 40 killometres, everything i
running fine and one thing I found is whe the car was serviced The cha
broke off one of the breather hoses which should sort out the fina
kinks in running when I glue it back on.

you have all saved me so much time and money.
Thanks again.

Clif


--
cliff100

[PC Paul]

Post by cliff100
Sorry Chaps me again,
I have had another thought and not taken the car apart again. I have
now found out the chap who first serviced it changed the mixture. I
have now had this sorted and the car is running fine. I have just
taken it for a run down the A2 approx 40 killometres, everything is
running fine and one thing I found is whe the car was serviced The
chap broke off one of the breather hoses which should sort out the
final kinks in running when I glue it back on.
you have all saved me so much time and money.
Thanks again.

Well at least you *shouldn't* have any dry joints in the throttle body now
;-)

[Dorian]

Could this cause a hole in the intake valve?