Trouble with Rover 25 Diesel after going through puddle

[o***@hotmail.com]

Hi, I took my car out a couple of nights ago and went through a puddle,
(as you do!) this all seemed fine until I tried to accelerate a few
minutes later. It just wouldn't, well nothing like what it normally
does. before going through the puddle, I was able to accelerate fine,
so I presume the problem is related.

This morning, I checked the oil - right between the max and min
markers. I then started the car. I drove it gently for about 8 miles
before stopping, still with the problem, and reving it in neutral. The
increase in revs was painfully slow, but once about 3500 rpm it picked
up. ( It used to go quickly throughout the rev range.)

After this, I tried to accelerate down a clear open road, acceleration
befor 3000 rmp was apauling, and only increased after 3000 rpm, however
the turbo (I think) made a much more noticable whine that usuall. The
top speed I could reach was 87mph and as the top speed is around 120,
there is obviously something wrong

I took the air filter cover off, and had a look inside, the filter was
abit dirty, but wasn't wet.
I am now lost for what to do. What could casue this loss of power?
Could the air filter have dried out in this time on rainy days? Could
the water have somehow broken the turbo?

I presume that the problem could be unrelated to the ttrip through the
puddle, but I've got no idea where to start without costly trips to a
garage.

Any help muh apprieciated,
Oliver

[Lin Chung]

...went through a puddle ...fine until I tried to accelerate a few
minutes later. It just wouldn't...The increase in revs was painfully
slow, but once about 3500 rpm it picked up....acceleration
befor 3000 rmp was apauling, and only increased after 3000 rpm,
however the turbo (I think) made a much more noticable whine
that usuall. The top speed I could reach was 87mph and as the top
speed is around 120....

The thermal shock has shattered the ceramic (glass monolith) honeycomb in
the catalytic converter blocking the exhaust. As a quick diagnostic, it may
rattle on gentle rocking. You'll gain an insight into the problem from
reading some of the tests they used to do on carbureted engines:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?B3232262D

[Tim..]

Post by o***@hotmail.com
Hi, I took my car out a couple of nights ago and went through a puddle,
(as you do!) this all seemed fine until I tried to accelerate a few
minutes later. It just wouldn't, well nothing like what it normally
does. before going through the puddle, I was able to accelerate fine,
so I presume the problem is related.
This morning, I checked the oil - right between the max and min
markers. I then started the car. I drove it gently for about 8 miles
before stopping, still with the problem, and reving it in neutral. The
increase in revs was painfully slow, but once about 3500 rpm it picked
up. ( It used to go quickly throughout the rev range.)
After this, I tried to accelerate down a clear open road, acceleration
befor 3000 rmp was apauling, and only increased after 3000 rpm, however
the turbo (I think) made a much more noticable whine that usuall. The
top speed I could reach was 87mph and as the top speed is around 120,
there is obviously something wrong
I took the air filter cover off, and had a look inside, the filter was
abit dirty, but wasn't wet.
I am now lost for what to do. What could casue this loss of power?
Could the air filter have dried out in this time on rainy days? Could
the water have somehow broken the turbo?
I presume that the problem could be unrelated to the ttrip through the
puddle, but I've got no idea where to start without costly trips to a
garage.
Any help muh apprieciated,
Oliver

Sounds like the cat has cracked from the cold water and is now blocking the
exhaust.

Tim..

[PhilC]

Post by Tim..

Post by o***@hotmail.com
Hi, I took my car out a couple of nights ago and went through a puddle,
(as you do!) this all seemed fine until I tried to accelerate a few
minutes later. It just wouldn't, well nothing like what it normally
does. before going through the puddle, I was able to accelerate fine,
so I presume the problem is related.
This morning, I checked the oil - right between the max and min
markers. I then started the car. I drove it gently for about 8 miles
before stopping, still with the problem, and reving it in neutral. The
increase in revs was painfully slow, but once about 3500 rpm it picked
up. ( It used to go quickly throughout the rev range.)
After this, I tried to accelerate down a clear open road, acceleration
befor 3000 rmp was apauling, and only increased after 3000 rpm, however
the turbo (I think) made a much more noticable whine that usuall. The
top speed I could reach was 87mph and as the top speed is around 120,
there is obviously something wrong
I took the air filter cover off, and had a look inside, the filter was
abit dirty, but wasn't wet.
I am now lost for what to do. What could casue this loss of power?
Could the air filter have dried out in this time on rainy days? Could
the water have somehow broken the turbo?
I presume that the problem could be unrelated to the ttrip through the
puddle, but I've got no idea where to start without costly trips to a
garage.
Any help muh apprieciated,
Oliver

Sounds like the cat has cracked from the cold water and is now blocking the
exhaust.
Tim..

Does Rover 25 Diesel have cat?

Worth checking the air filter - wet or clogged and fuel filter again
moisture or clogged. Should be able to drain fuel filter and check for water
quite easily.

PhilC

[Paul Hubbard]

Post by PhilC
Does Rover 25 Diesel have cat?

Yes, it has a cat fitted.

Post by PhilC

Post by PhilC
Worth checking the air filter - wet or clogged and fuel filter again

moisture or clogged. Should be able to drain fuel filter and check for water
quite easily.

Trouble is that a defective or clogged MAF gives the same symptoms, I've had
this fault and the best description is like she's driving in glue. New MAF
cured all.

I've driven through a flood in a diesel 25 and never had the thermal shock
issue as mentioned. Mind you, I did drive through keeping a good bow wake
rather than those people who pussy foot through and wonder why they conk out
half way through.

PDH

[o***@hotmail.com]

Hi, thanks for all your responses.
I have given the car a little rocking, but didnt hear any rattling for
anywhere.
I have looked at the air filter and it is dry, only a little dirty.
I'm not entirely sure where the MAF sensor is (will looks in haynes
later) but is it likey that water would affect this?

The problem seemed better this morning, my acceleration was not
perfect, but certainly much better than before, yet this afternoon it
was back to 'like driving through glue'

Oliver

[Paul Hubbard]

Post by o***@hotmail.com
The problem seemed better this morning, my acceleration was not
perfect, but certainly much better than before, yet this afternoon it
was back to 'like driving through glue'

You have two sensors on the L series that can go futt. The MAF (manifold
airflow) is fitted inline with the 2 inch air intake frm the filter box to
the turbo inlet and can be identified by a torx secured 4 wire plug. The
second sensor, the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and incidentally the one
that went futt for me, is secured to the A frame bulkhead and has a vacuum
hose running to it which is prone to getting blocked due to its small bore
size. The wiring plug to this is located on the underside and is secured by
a single bolt to the bulkhead. I was unlucky, the hose was OK, the sensor
was out of range and the ECU eventually went into limp home mode and reduced
the availale power hence the glue drive.

I would suggest that you carefully remove the MAF sensor first and check
that it is clean, then go for the MAP sensor and check that the vacuum hose
to it is not leaking or blocked. Both faults will NOT show up on a ECU
reader until they totally go out of tolerance but the performance of the car
can go overnight. Only way to test is by substitution I'm afraid and both
sensors are not cheap. If you want to exonerate the CAT, you can replace it
with a straight section of pipe to test if the CAT has collapsed but I
suspect that your woes are in the engine bay and the sensors.

PDH

[Paul Hubbard]

Post by o***@hotmail.com
I have looked at the air filter and it is dry, only a little dirty.
I'm not entirely sure where the MAF sensor is (will looks in haynes
later) but is it likey that water would affect this?

You have two sensors on the L series that can go futt. The MAF (manifold
airflow) is fitted inline with the 2 inch air intake frm the filter box to
the turbo inlet and can be identified by a torx secured 4 wire plug. The
second sensor, the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and incidentally the one
that went futt for me, is secured to the A frame bulkhead and has a vacuum
hose running to it which is prone to getting blocked due to its small bore
size. The wiring plug to this is located on the underside and is secured by
a single bolt to the bulkhead. I was unlucky, the hose was OK, the sensor
was out of range and the ECU eventually went into limp home mode and reduced
the availale power hence the glue drive.

I would suggest that you carefully remove the MAF sensor first and check
that it is clean, then go for the MAP sensor and check that the vacuum hose
to it is not leaking or blocked. Both faults will NOT show up on a ECU
reader until they totally go out of tolerance but the performance of the car
can go overnight. Only way to test is by substitution I'm afraid and both
sensors are not cheap. If you want to exonerate the CAT, you can replace it
with a straight section of pipe to test if the CAT has collapsed but I
suspect that your woes are in the engine bay and the sensors.

PDH

[reg]

Post by o***@hotmail.com
Hi, I took my car out a couple of nights ago and went through a puddle,
(as you do!) this all seemed fine until I tried to accelerate a few
minutes later. It just wouldn't, well nothing like what it normally
does. before going through the puddle, I was able to accelerate fine,
so I presume the problem is related.
This morning, I checked the oil - right between the max and min
markers. I then started the car. I drove it gently for about 8 miles
before stopping, still with the problem, and reving it in neutral. The
increase in revs was painfully slow, but once about 3500 rpm it picked
up. ( It used to go quickly throughout the rev range.)
After this, I tried to accelerate down a clear open road, acceleration
befor 3000 rmp was apauling, and only increased after 3000 rpm, however
the turbo (I think) made a much more noticable whine that usuall. The
top speed I could reach was 87mph and as the top speed is around 120,
there is obviously something wrong
I took the air filter cover off, and had a look inside, the filter was
abit dirty, but wasn't wet.
I am now lost for what to do. What could casue this loss of power?
Could the air filter have dried out in this time on rainy days? Could
the water have somehow broken the turbo?
I presume that the problem could be unrelated to the ttrip through the
puddle, but I've got no idea where to start without costly trips to a
garage.
Any help muh apprieciated,
Oliver

driving a diesel car through a puddle, can cause severe engine damage (
hydraulic lock) if water is sucked up through the air intake.

[Taylor]

Post by reg
driving a diesel car through a puddle, can cause severe engine damage (
hydraulic lock) if water is sucked up through the air intake.

Never driven a diesel to be honest; but why the hell are obvious items such
as puddles not catered for by the now defunct British car-maker? One word
springs to mind. It begins with retard.

[Paul Hubbard]

"Taylor" <***@boo.com> wrote in message news:F7idg.26$***@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...

I think puddle is being too liberal and the wrong description. I have taken
a 25 diesel through at least a foot and a half of water with no ill effects.
The trick is to keep going at a steady rate and let the bow wave keep the
engine bay clear. You stop or slow down too much and that's the end of it.

PDH

[Chris Bolus]

On Thu, 25 May 2006 13:17:25 GMT, "Taylor"

Post by Taylor

Post by reg
driving a diesel car through a puddle, can cause severe engine damage (
hydraulic lock) if water is sucked up through the air intake.

Never driven a diesel to be honest; but why the hell are obvious items such
as puddles not catered for by the now defunct British car-maker? One word
springs to mind. It begins with retard.

It's not just Rovers. My wife effectively scrapped the engine on a ZX -
OK, she went through a ford in flood, but investigation showed that the
air intake scoop was behind the front bumper, and I could imagine the
same happening with a deep puddle such as some I've seen in the last
week!